How To Shop For A New Flute
By Joseph W. Butkevicius
With so many manufacturers of fine quality instruments available, it is often confusing sorting out the multitude of choices and options available for many of today's flutes. Choosing the right instrument for you involves 3 basic criteria: knowledge of construction, options available, and (the all important) play test. Price will also be a factor, but many good models are available at various price points.Where To Start
The first consideration in narrowing your choice is price. Have in mind a price that you are willing to pay for your new flute. With that in mind, do some homework. Ask friends, other flutists, repair technicians, etc., what they like. But remember, not everyone will like the same instrument. Don't blindly go out and buy a flute based on someone's brand and model recommendation. Don't limit your possibilities, you're looking for an instrument that will best serve your needs! Once you have a price range in mind and have done your homework, go out and see the actual merchandise. The play test is perhaps the best way of selecting an instrument after you've done your research and gather plenty of opinions. You should feel comfortable with the instrument and like the tone and response. It would be wise to take along someone whose opinion you respect to listen to your sound on the instruments. Compare three or four instruments at one sitting to help make your selection. Don't be afraid to try instruments above your price range to experience a truly fine instrument. (You may even change your price range, so be careful!)The Blindfold Play Test
Don't be concerned about the brand or model at first. Close your eyes and play some flutes without knowing which is which, to see what you sound good on and feel comfortable with. Here's where that trusted extra set of ears you've brought with you pays off. Have the dealer name them by a number rather than brand and model. This way your opinion of the flute will remain unbiased. I have found that people are often surprised with their choice when the play tests are done in this manner. You've selected an instrument on how you sound on it and how comfortable it plays. The proof is ultimately in the playing! Have your friend write down your mutually agreed opinions by flute number to help you make a choice.What Next?
During the play test you've compared some instruments side by side. Here are some typical comments many people make: - I like the feel of the #2 flute but my tone is so much better on #3.
- Flutes #1 and #2 seem almost identical. How do I choose between the two?
- I didn't like flutes #3 or #4 at all.
It's revelation time! Find out the brands, models, and prices for the flutes that had things you liked. Many flute makers have options that can help you, in effect, "customize" a flute for your needs. Many models have different headjoint and keywork options and you may be able to combine the features of different flutes that you found preferable. If you took good notes during the blindfold test the dealer should be able to explain the options for your particular preferences. Make sure the instrument is from a reputable maker of flutes.
Flutes are made of various types of precious metals and cost is partially determined by the precious metal content. Student flutes are made of brass and plated in silver or nickel. Some are constructed of nickel silver and then plated. Silver headjoints abound on plated body instruments for the more budget minded, upgrade flute buyer. Be aware that there are numerous factors that contribute to the sound of a flute including the player! Two different people playing the same flute can sound entirely different.
Many makers of intermediateand pro flutes make a series of headjoints to help you customize your flute. If a flute has a really nice feel and great action but the tone wasn't to your standards, you may be able to choose a different headjoint that will achieve the tonal quality and response you are looking for. Headjoint wall thickness, riser height, hole shape, undercut and overcut, all contribute to the sound and response of a flute. Select the flute with a reliable, comfortable mechanism and then try to match a headjoint that gives you the tone and response you're looking for.
Some Intermediate and pro flutes offer a choice of wall thickness. Thin walled flutes are responsive but sometimes lack the rich tonal character players are looking for. Strong players might overpower them and need a thick wall flute. Conversely, some players find a heavy wall flute too unresponsive for them and lean towards a thinner walled flute. The headjoint can make a difference either way. You've got to experiment and see which works best for you. If the option is there, try it!
The foot joint affects the balance of the flute in the hands, the 3rd register, and response of the long tube notes on the flute. The more obvious advantages of a B foot are facilitation of high C (with the gizmo key) and the ability to play low B. Some flutes even offer a convertable C to B foot to have the best of both worlds. B foots are perhaps more common today than they used to be.
The purpose of this keywork modification is solely for making High E more stable. The split E mechanism spits the G key into independent keys, adds keywork for its regulation, and adds keywork to close the second G key simultaneously with the E key (3rd finger right hand) This venting makes the high E more stable but the addition of keyworks also adds more possibilities for regulation errors. The high E facilitator simply adds an insert resembling a donut in the tone hole of the second G. This provides a similar stability while playing high E without the addition of any mechanism. These donut type devices are usually added later.
Offset G is found on most student instruments. The G keys are mounted on their own rod
between a set of posts offset from the rest of the keywork. It allows for players with small hands to more easily reach the G key with the left hand ring finger. In-line G combines the keywork with the A and Bb keys so that all the keys are in line. The stretch, size of the hand, and length of the ring finger will determine the comfort between in-line or offset G.
Plateau model flutes have closed holes. Open hole (French model) flutes have open holes that your fingers need to cover. There are arguments pro and con for both types. Most people opt for open hole flutes above the student line instruments. I will leave that decision for you!
Things like low B trill keys, Bb foot joints (yes, I've actually seen one), and C# trill keys are best left for those who really have a strong desire to have one. (You know who you are!)
You've played the flutes. You've made tough decisions regarding available options to customize
your flute. The price is within your budget. It feels great in your hands. That trusted set of ears that came along for the ride with you says you sound dynamite. You've made the decision to buy it. You do. What's next?GO HOME AND PRACTICE!