Flute Headjoint Corks

SYMPTOM: poor tone (Assume embouchure is correct)
CAUSES: Head cork assembly or embouchure plate solder joint leaking.
TEST: Cover 1 end with hand and suck the air out. A good vacuum seal should result.

Temporary repairs:

  1. Remove head cork assembly. Unscrew crown and force assembly down using a wood dowel (never pull the cork out through the tapered end).
  2. Cover one end and the embouchure hole. Suck the air out and check for a leak. Any leakage at this point results from deteriorated solder around the embouchure plate. BRING IT TO THE SHOP!
  3. Cork should be held tightly between the holding plates with no gap. Screw the top plate down if loose.
  4. Replace cork assembly by dropping it into the larger end and force it into position. If there is still leakage then the cork has shrunk and needs replacing. Scotch tape can be wrapped around the cork to seal it in tightly until the cork can be replaced.
  5. Adjust the position using the cleaning rod mark as a guide. The mark should be centered in the embouchure hole
  6. Check seal again. Repeat the procedure adding tape until vacuum seal can be acheived.
  7. When time permits, have the cork replaced.
Other Causes: Sometimes the inside of the embouchure hole will be covered with a crusted film (food particles, etc.) This results in the air flow being disrupted and the subsequent poor tone. Clean with a swab and some alcohol and all should be well.

Myths about tuning:

Adjusting the tuning cork forward or back does not adjust overall intonation of the flute up or down universally. Movement out of center will flatten the upper register and sharpen the lower or visa versa. Position of the cork is measured as follows: the length of the end plate to the center of the embouchure hole is equal to the diameter of the tapered end of the flute. Physics determines the proportions! Flutes are designed to play most in tune with this proportion set properly.

Common Mechanical Problems, Cures, And Prevention

Spring slippage is a very common problem. Inspect the flute closely for closed or open keys that are not in their normal playing position. reposition the springs using a spring hook.

Broken springs can be temporarily "repaired" by the clever use of an elastic band. CAUTION: Remove the rubber band after the concert and get the spring replaced as soon as possible. Rubber left on the flute finish will cause horrible tarnish problems.

An F key that won't close is a common problem caused by improper assembly technique. Students bend the assembly while putting the flute together. The F key foot must be bent back in postion and regulated when this happens. Make sure students avoid handling keys while assembling or keep keys closed while assembling.

The C key hinge rod often works loose enough to allow the Bb-A keys to pop up. Tighten the screw to reset it, but not to tightly or the keys will bind.

Other problems are associated mainly with adjustment screws needing tweaking. It will be needed to be done from time to time.

Inspect the flute for any ripped pads. Any rips through a pad seat will prevent the instrument from playing below that point. Tears on the outside of a pad will eventually cause problems and should be replaced. A dab of clear nail polish can temporarily postpone the futher tearing on the outside diameter of a pad. NEVER use nail polish where it might contact the tone hole.

Copyright © 1995, Joe Butkevicius, Revised 12/4/95